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Last Updated:
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News
Latest News Items:
Summer Tips for You Pet -- Monday June 2nd, 2008
This summer is sure to be a hot one.....why not take a minute to ensure your pets stay safe.
When caring for your pets this summer keep in mind that they are always wearing a fur coat, sometimes a double coat depending on the breed.
Pets in general for sure need unlimited access to cool water to keep hydrated, but what else do they need?
1. If running or jogging with you pet, try doing it in the cooler parts of the day, early morning, and after the sun goes down, especially if your dog is older.
2. Never, never leave your pet in a locked car. The inside temperture can easily exceed 100 degrees.
3. Provide shade, or even bring pets in when the days are in the 90's or above. They can suffer from the same prblems people do, example heat stoke, heart attack, heat exhaustion, etc.
4. Allow additional breaks to rest if you have your dog hiking, running, or walking long distances.
5. Remember to apply repellents, flea treatment, heartguard, etc. to keep pets safe from pests that cause problems.
6. Pay close attention to your pet for signs of overheating, excessive panting, shaking, hard to cathc breathe, etc.
Carbon Monoxide Kills -- Wednesday February 20th, 2008
I heard a terrible story the other day. I went out to dinner with a friend that lost a dog to carbon monoxide toxicity. They have a cabin that they go to with their dogs. When they arrived at the cabin, it was freezing cold so they turned on several space heaters (that weren't vented). They left the dogs in the cabin and went in to town to get some groceries and supplies. Then they had lunch, met a few friends and returned to the cabin several hours later to find their one dog...dead and the other dog was weak and obviously sick.
So today, I want to talk to you about a real possible threat in your home. I don't want this to happen to you.
Carbon monoxide may be a real danger in your home and can harm you and poison your pets. Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless poisonous gas. When present, this gas is absorbed into the bloodstream and forms a compound that causes a reduced oxygen supply to the heart and brain.
The most common cause of carbon monoxide toxicity is a non-vented or poorly ventilated furnace, gas water heater, gas/kerosene space heater in your home or faulty exhaust systems. It can also be caused by an automobile exhaust in a closed garage, smoke inhalation (for example, in burning buildings) and airplane cargo areas.
Common signs include drowsiness, lethargy, weakness and/or incoordination, bright red color to the skin and gums, difficulty breathing, coma and sudden death. Occasionally, chronic (low-grade, long-term) exposure may cause exercise intolerance, changes in gait (walking), and disturbances of normal reflexes.
When my friend got back to the cabin – he was devastated. He took the dogs to the local veterinarian. The one dog made it with treatment and is doing well. My friend is still shocked and asked me to tell you this story, hoping it saves someone's pet.
Prevent toxicity by minimizing exposure and using carbon monoxide detectors around your home. Ensure your furnace or space heaters are well-ventilated. Carbon monoxide detectors are available in most home improvement stores and are also available as co-monitors with smoke detectors.
Buy one and protect yourself, your family and your pets.
Until next time,
Dr. Jon
P.S. Unexpected emergencies, like carbon monoxide toxicity, can occur. Make sure you can care for your dog in the case of a medial emergency. Find out if pet insurance is right for you and your dog.
GIVE A BOWL PROGRAM -- Thursday February 14th, 2008
Good Afternoon,
Give A Bowl Reward Coupons:
You should have received your reward coupons by now. As you know, this was our first time issuing your “Points Reward Packets†and like the first time with anything, it didn’t go without a hiccup or two. For the most part, everything went smoothly however the files were not processed in the manner we had intended so each coupon was sent in a separate envelope (rather than all of them in one large envelope) and the cover letter was not included. Moving forward we want to mentioned that for security reasons, we have asked for the return address not to state “Coupons Inc.†but the Post Office Box out of Los Altos, CA.
Suggestions for Redeeming your Reward Coupons:
Since our Give A Bowl Program is new and unfortunately with the concerns of coupons being sold on Ebay and alike websites, all high-value coupons can raise an eyebrow of any retailer in various management levels. We would like to suggest that you take your reward coupons to the customer service counter to alert the management at the beginning of your shopping experience so that it will give them a heads up to notify their cashier and /or initial the corner of the coupon to insure you have a smooth transaction when checking out. As you are communicating with the management of the retail store you have selected to redeem your coupons take a minute to introduce yourself and let them know that in the future you will be bringing in coupons such as these to redeem, you will want to build a relationship with that management team if you have not done so already. There may be an occasion when an overly cautious manager would like proof that the coupons are truly what they are (Reward Coupons for hard work!) please feel free to ask them to go to www.veri-fi.com to authenticate the coupon. This process will take a couple of minutes so once again it would be a good idea to touch base with the customer service department or manager before shopping.
Purina Contact:
I would like to give you Maria Kerwin’s phone number (1-800-982-5929) she is the Purina Senior Retail Analyst who will be able to help you or the retailer if you should run into any difficulty redeeming your reward coupons. And of course, I am always here to assist you.
Give A Bowl Program’s Success:
We are very pleased with the success of the Purina Give A Bowl Program and looking forward to the program’s growth. We are seeing a very good response from the adopters going to the Give A Bowl Website and downloading their $4 coupon and of course selecting your organization to receive the $1 food credit when they redeem their coupon. Please be sure that when you are giving your adopters the 3x5 Pocket Cards you put your organization’s name and zip code on the back of that card so that the adopters can easily select your organization to receive the food credit. (Occasionally an adopter may live out of your zip code and will not be able to find your organization.) Take a few minutes with the adopters and let them know how important their role is in downloading and redeeming the $4 coupon so they can give back to the organization that they just adopted their new loving pet from.
If you are in need of 3x5 pocket cards or any other supplies please let me know and I can get them out to you.
Reminder: February is “PetLover Valentine’s Promotionâ€:
The Purina Pet’s for Seniors Program is promoting Senior Adoption for the Month of February. If you haven’t already you can log in and download promotional materials at www.PetsForPeople.com . The Give A Bowl Program has joined this promotion and for every $4 coupon that is redeemed for the Month of February your organization will receive $2 worth of Purina brand pet food. When speaking to you adopters please let them know you will be doubling your rewards for the month of February with every coupon redeemed.
Please Invite Other Animal Welfare Organization to Join the Give A Bowl Program:
We would love for you to tell other Animal Welfare Organizations about our Give A Bowl Program. Please direct them to the website at www.giveabowl.com and have them go to “Register your Organization†in the right hand corner of that page. If you belong to a National Organization please feel free to invite your association members to join our program.
We appreciate your support and all the hard work that you encounter in taking care of the homeless pets in your care.
Thank you for your time.
Happy Valentine’s Day!!
Helene
Give A Bowl Relationship Manager
Email: purinagiveabowl@comcast.net
Phone: 1-877-737-4221 (Toll Free)
Fatal Flowers! -- Sunday December 2nd, 2007
Here is a list of all of the toxic and possibly fatal plants to avoid or keep our of your pets' reach at all times: Acocanthera (flowers, fruit)
Aconite (also called Monkshood, Wolfsbane - leaves, flowers, roots)
Acorns (all parts)
Alfalfa (also called Lucerne - foliage)
Almond (seeds)
Aloe Vera (also called Burn Plant - sap)
Alocasia (all parts)
Alsike Clover (foliage)
Amaryllis (also called Naked Lady - bulbs)
American Yew (also called Yew - needles, seeds, bark)
Amsinckia (also called Tarweed - all above ground, especially seeds)
Andromeda Japonica (all parts)
Angel Vine (also called Mattress Vine, Wire Vine - all parts)
Angel's Trumpet (also called Chalice Vine, Datura, Trumpet Vine - all parts, especially seeds)
Angel's Wings (also called Elephant Ears - leaves, stems, roots)
Antherium (also called Flamingo Lily, Painter's Palette - leaves, stems, roots)
Apple (seeds)
Apple of Peru (also called Thornapple, Flowering Tolguacha - all parts, especially seeds)
Apple Leaf Croton (all parts)
Apricot (inner seed)
Arrowgrass (foliage)
Arrowhead Vine (also called Nepthytis, Tri-Leaf Wonder - leaves, stems, roots)
Asian Lily (Liliaceae - all parts)
Asparagus Fern (shoots, berries)
Australian Nut (all parts)
Autumn Crocus (also called Crocus - all parts)
Avocado (fruit, pit, leaves)
Azalea (all parts)
Baby's Breath (all parts)
Baneberry (also called Doll's Eyes - foliage, red/white berries, roots)
Bayonet Plant (foliage, flowers)
Beargrass (all parts)
Beech (all parts)
Belladonna (all parts, especially black berries)
Bird of Paradise (seeds, fruit)
Bitter Cherry (seeds)
Bitter Nightshade (also called Climbing Nightshade, Bittersweet, European Bittersweet - all parts, especially berries)
Bittersweet (also called Bitter Nightshade, Climbing Nightshade, European Bittersweet - all parts, especially berries)
Black-eyed Susan (all parts)
Black Locust (leaves, shoots, pods, seeds, inner bark)
Black Nightshade (also called Common Nightshade, Nightshade - unripe berries)
Bleeding Heart (foliage, roots)
Bloodroot (all parts)
Blue Flag (also called Flag, Fleur-de-lis, Iris - bulbs)
Blue-Green Algae (all parts)
Bluebonnet (also called Lupine, Quaker Bonnets - all parts)
Boston Ivy (leaves, berries)
Bouncing Bet (also called Soapwort - all parts)
Box (all parts)
Boxwood (all parts)
Brackenfern; Braken Fern (also called Brake Fern - all parts)
Brake Fern (also called Brakenfern, Braken Fern - all parts)
Branching Ivy (leaves, berries)
Buckeye (also called Ohio Buckey, Horse Chestnut - buds, nuts, leaves, bark, seedlings, honey)
Buckthorn (all parts)
Buddhist Pine (all parts)
Bulbs (all species in the families Amarylliaceae, Iridaceae, Liliaceae - bulbs)
Bull Nettle (also called Carolina Nettle, Horse Nettle - all parts)
Burn Plant (also called Aloe Vera - sap)
Buttercups (also called Crowfoot - new leaves, stems)
Cactus (leaves, stem, milky sap)
Caladium (all parts)
Caley Pea (all parts)
Calfkill (all parts)
Calla Lily (all parts)
Candelabra Cactus (also called False Cactus - leaves, stem, milky sap)
Carolina Horsenettle (also called Bull Nettle, Horse Nettle - all parts)
Carolina Jessamine (also called Yellow Jessamine, Yellow Jasmine - all parts)
Castor Oil Plant (also called Castor Bean - all parts, especially seeds)
Castor Bean (also called Castor Oil Plant - all parts, especially seeds)
Ceriman (also called Cut-leaf Philodendron, Fruit Salad Plant, Mexican Breadfruit, Split-leaf Philodendron, Swiss Cheese (leaves, stems, roots)
Chalice Vine (also called Angel's Trumpet, Trumpet Vine - all parts)
Charming Dieffenbachia (all parts)
Cherry (also called Bitter Cherry, Choke Cherry, Ground Cherry, Pin Cherry, Wild Black Cherry, most wild varieties - all parts)
Cherry Laurel (foliage, flowers)
Chicks (all parts)
Chinaberry Tree (berries)
Chinese Evergreen (leaves, stems, roots)
Chinese Inkberry (also called Jessamine - fruit, sap)
Chinese Lantern (leaf, unripe fruit)
Choke Cherry (seeds, bark)
Christmas Flower (also called Christmas Plant, Easter Flower, Poinsettia - leaves, stem, milky sap)
Christmas Plant (also called Christmas Flower, Easter Flower, Poinsettia - leaves, stem, milky sap)
Christmas Rose (foliage, flowers)
Chrysanthemum (also called Feverfew, Mum - all parts)
Cineria (all parts)
Clematis (all parts)
Climbing Nightshade (also called Bitter Nightshade, Bittersweet, European Bittersweet - all parts)
Clover (also called Alsike Clover, Red Clover, White Clover - foliage)
Cocklebur (seeds, seedlings, burs)
Common Burdock (burs)
Common Nightshade (also called Black Nightshade, Nightshade - unripe berries)
Common Privet (foliage, berries)
Common Tansy (foliage, flowers)
Coral Plant (all parts)
Cordatum (all parts)
Coriaria (all parts)
Corn Lily (also called False Hellebore, Western False Hellebore - all parts)
Corn Plant (also called Cornstalk Plant - all parts)
Cornflower (all parts)
Cornstalk Plant (also called Corn Plant - all parts)
Corydalis (leaves, stems, roots)
Cowslip (new leaves, stems)
Crab's Eye (also called Jequirity Bean, Precatory Bean, Rosary Pea - beans)
Creeping Charlie (all parts)
Crocus (also called Autumn Crocus - all parts)
Croton (foliage, shoots)
Crowfoot (also called Buttercup - new leaves, stems)
Crown of Thorns (all parts)
Cuban Laurel (all parts)
Cuckoo Pint (also called Lords and Ladies - all parts)
Cultivated Bleeding Heart (leaves, stems, roots)
Cultivated Larkspur (all parts)
Cutleaf Philodendron (also called Ceriman, Fruit Salad Plant, Mexican Breadfruit, Split-leaf Philodendron, Swiss Cheese Plant - leaves, stems, roots)
Cycads (all parts)
Cyclamen (foliage, flowers, stems)
Cypress Spurge (foliage, flowers, sap)
Daffodil (also called Jonquil, Narcissus - all parts)
Daphne (berries, bark, leaves)
Datura (all parts)
Day Lily (all parts)
Deadly Nightshade (also called Belladonna, Black Nightshade, Common Nightshade - foliage, unripe fruit, sprouts)
Death Camas (also called Amanita - all parts)
Death Cap Mushroom (all parts)
Decentrea (all parts)
Delphinium (all parts)
Destroying Angel Mushroom (also called Amanita - all parts)
Devil's Backbone (also called Kalanchoe - leaves, stems)
Devil's Ivy (also called Golden Pothos, Pothos - all parts)
Devil's Trumpet (also called Datura - all parts)
Dieffenbachia (also call Dumb Cane - all parts)
Dogbane (leaves, stems, roots)
Doll's Eyes (also called Baneberry - foliage, red/white berries, roots)
Dracaena Palm (foliage)
Dragon Tree (foliage)
Dumbcane (also called Aroids - leaves, stems, roots)
Dutchman's Breeches (also called Staggerweed - leaves, stems, roots)
Dwarf Larkspur (also called Larkspur, Poisonweed - all parts)
Easter Flower (also called Christmas Flower, Christmas Plant, Poinsettia - leaves, stem, milky sap)
Easter Lily (leaves, stems, flowers, bulbs)
Eggplant (all parts but fruit)
Elaine (all parts)
Elderberry (all parts)
Elephant Ears (also called Angel's Wings - leaves, stems, roots)
Emerald Duke (also called Majesty, Philodendron, Red Princess - all parts)
Emerald Feather (also called Emerald Fern - all parts)
Emerald Fern (also called Emerald Feather - all parts)
English Ivy (leaves, berries)
English Yew (also called Yew - needles, seeds, bark)
Ergot (fungus on seed heads of grains and grasses)
Eucalyptus (all parts)
Euonymus (all parts)
Euphorbia (foliage, flowers, sap)
European Bittersweet (also called Bitter Nightshade, Bittersweet, Climbing Nightshade - all parts)
Evergreen (all parts)
Everlasting Pea (all parts)
False Cactus (also called Candelabra Cactus - leaves, stem, milky sap)
False Hellbore (also called Corn Lily, Western False Hellebore - all parts)
Ferns (all parts)
Feverfew (also called Chrysanthemum, Mum - leaves, stalks)
Ficus (sap, peel)
Fiddle-leaf Fig (all parts)
Fiddle-Leaf Philodendron (all parts)
Fiddleneck (also called Tarweed - all parts above ground)
Flag (also called Blue Flag, Fleur-de-lis, Iris - bulbs)
Flamingo Plant (all parts)
Flax (foliage)
Fleur-de-lis (also called Blue Flag, Flag, Iris - bulbs)
Florida Beauty (all parts)
Fly Agaric (also called Amanita - all parts)
Four O'Clock (all parts)
Foxglove (leaves, stems, flowers, seeds)
Foxtail Barley (also called Squirreltail Barley, Wild Barley - seedheads)
Fruit Salad Plant (also called Ceriman, Cut-leaf Philodendron, Mexican Breadfruit, Split-leaf Philodendron, Swiss Cheese Plant - leaves, stems, roots)
Gelsemium (foliage, flowers, berries, sap)
Geranium (all parts)
German Ivy (all parts above ground)
Ghost Weed (also called Snow on the Mountain - leaves, stem, milky sap)
Giant Dumbcane (also called Dieffenbachia - all parts)
Gill-Over-The-Ground (all parts)
Glacier Ivy (leaves, berries)
Gladiola (bulbs)
Glory Lily (all parts)
Gold Dieffenbachia (all parts)
Gold Dust Dracaena (foliage)
Golden Chain (also called Laburnum - flowers, seeds)
Golden Pothos (also called Devil's Ivy, Pothos - all parts)
Gopher Purge (all parts)
Grapes (all parts; also see Raisins)
Green Dragon (also called Jack-in-the-Pulpit, Indian Turnip - leaves, stems, roots)
Green False Hellebore (also called Indian Poke, White Hellebore - all parts)
Green Gold Nephthysis (all parts)
Ground Ivy (all parts)
Groundsel (also called Ragwort, Tansy Ragwort - all parts above ground)
Hahn's Self-branching English Ivy (leaves, berries)
Heartleaf (also called Parlor Ivy, Philodendron - all parts)
Heartland Philodendron (also called Philodendron - all parts)
Heavenly Bamboo (all parts)
Hellebore (foliage, flowers)
Hemlock (also called Poison Hemlock, Water Hemlock - all parts)
Henbane (seeds)
Hens-and-Chicks (all parts)
Holly (berries)
Honeysuckle (all parts)
Horse Nettle (also called Bull Nettle, Carolina Horsenettle - all parts)
Horse Chestnut (also called Buckeye, Ohio Buckeye - buds, nuts, leaves, bark, seedlings, honey)
Horsebeans
Horsebrush (foliage)
Horsehead Philodendron (all parts)
Horsetail (also called Scouringrush - all parts)
Hurricane Plant (bulbs)
Hyacinth (bulbs, leaves, flowers)
Hydrangea (all parts)
Impatiens (also called Touch-me-not - all parts)
Indian Poke (also called Green False Hellebore, White Hellebore - all parts)
Indian Rubber Plant (all parts)
Indian Tobacco (all parts)
Indian Turnip (also called Green Dragon, Jack-in-the-Pulpit - leaves, stems, roots)
Inkberry (also called Pokeweed - all parts)
Iris (also called Blue Flag, Flag, Fleur-de-lis - bulbs)
Iris Ivy (all parts)
Ivies (all species - leaves, berries)
Jack-in-the-Pulpit (also called Green Dragon, Indian Turnip - leaves, stems, roots)
Jamestown Weed (also called Jimsonweed - all parts)
Janet Craig Dracaena (foliage)
Japanese Show Lily (all parts)
Japanese Yew (also called Yew - needles, seeds, bark)
Jasmine (foliage, flowers, sap)
Jatropha (seeds, sap)
Java Bean (also called Lima Bean - uncooked beans)
Jequirity Bean (also called Crab's Eye, Precatory Bean, Rosary Pea - beans)
Jerusalem Cherry (all parts)
Jessamine (also called Chinese Inkberry - fruit, sap)
Jimson Weed (also called Jamestown Weed - all parts)
Johnson Grass (leaves, stems)
Jonquil (also called Daffodil, Narcissus - all parts)
Juniper (needles, stems, berries)
Jungle Trumpets (all parts)
Kalanchoe (also called Devil's Backbone - leaves, stems)
Klamath Weed (also called St. Johnswort - all parts)
Laburnum (also called Golden Chain - flowers, seeds)
Lace Fern (all parts)
Lacy Tree Philodendron (all parts)
Lambkill (also called Sheep Laurel - all parts)
Lantana (also called Lantana Camara, Red Sage, West Indian Lantana, Yellow Sage - foliage, flowers, berries)
Lantana Camara (also called Red Sage, Yellow Sage - foliage, flowers, berries)
Larkspur (all parts)
Laurel (all parts)
Lilies (all species - all parts)
Lily-of-the-Valley (all parts)
Lily Spider (all parts)
Lima Bean (also called Java Bean - uncooked beans)
Locoweed (all parts)
Lords and Ladies (also called Cuckoo Pint - all parts)
Lucerne (also called Alfalfa - foliage)
Lupine (also called Bluebonnet, Quaker Bonnets - all parts)
Macadamia Nut (all parts)
Madagascar Dragon Tree (foliage)
Majesty (also called Emerald Duke, Philodendron, Red Princess - all parts)
Mandrake (also called Mayapple - all but ripe fruit)
Marble Queen (all parts)
Marigold (also called Marsh Marigold - new leaves, stems)
Marsh Marigold (also called Marigold - new leaves, stems)
Mattress Vine (also called Angel Vine, Wire Vine - all parts)
Mauna Loa Peace Lily (also called Peace Lily - all parts)
Mayapple (also called Mandrake - all but ripe fruit)
Mescal Bean (also called Texas Mountain Laurel - all parts)
Mexican Breadfruit (also called Ceriman, Cut-leaf Philodendron, Fruit Salad Plant, Split-leaf Philodendron, Swiss Cheese Plant - leaves, stems, roots)
Mexican Poppy (also called Prickly Poppy - all parts)
Milk Bush (also called Euphorbia, Tinsel Tree - all parts)
Milkweed (leaves, stems, roots)
Milo (foliage)
Miniature Croton (foliage, shoots)
Mistletoe (all parts)
Mock Orange (fruit)
Monkshood (also called Aconite, Wolfsbane - leaves, flowers, roots)
Moonseed (berries)
Morning Glory (all parts)
Mother-in-Law Tongue (also calledSnake Plant - foliage)
Mountain Laurel (also called Lambkill, Sheep Laurel - all parts)
Mushrooms (also called Amanita, Death Cap, Destroying Angel, Fly Agaric, Panther Cap, Spring Amanita - all parts)
Nap-at-Noon (also called Snowdrop, Star of Bethlehem - all parts)
Narcissus (all parts)
Needlepoint Ivy (leaves, berries)
Nephthytis (also called Arrowhead Vine, Tri-Leaf Wonder - leaves, stems, roots)
Nightshade (also called Black Nightshade, Common Nightshade, Deadly Nightshade - berries)
Nutmeg (nut)
Oaks (buds, young shoots, sprouts, acorns)
Oleander (all parts)
Onion (all parts)
Orange Day Lily (all parts)
Oriental Lily (all parts)
Panda (all parts)
Panther Cap Mushroom (also called Amanita - all parts)
Parlor Ivy (also called Heartleaf, Philodendron- all parts)
Peace Lily (also called Mauna Loa Peace Lily - all parts)
Peach (pits, wilting leaves)
Pencil Cactus (all parts)
Pennyroyal (foliage, flowers)
Peony (foliage, flowers)
Periwinkle (all parts)
Peyote (also called Mescal - buttons)
Philodendron (also called Heartland Philodendron - leaves, stems, roots)
Pie Plant (also called Rhubarb - leaves, uncooked stems)
Pimpernel (foliage, flowers, fruit)
Pin Cherry (seeds)
Pinks (all parts)
Plumosa Fern (all parts)
Poinsettia (also called Christmas Flower, Christmas Plant, Easter Flower - [low toxicity] leaves, stem, milky sap)
Poison Hemlock (also called Hemlock - all parts)
Poison Ivy (all parts)
Poison Oak (all parts)
Poison Weed (also called Dwarf Lakspur, Larkspur, Delphinium - all parts)
Pokeweed (also called Inkberry - all parts)
Poppy (all parts)
Potato (sprouts, vines, unripe tubers)
Pothos (also called Devil's Ivy, Golden Pothos - all parts)
Precatory Bean (also called Crab's Eye, Jequirity Bean, Rosary Pea - beans)
Prickly Poppy (also called Mexican Poppy - all parts)
Primrose (all parts)
Privet (also called Common Privet - foliage, berries)
Quaker Bonnets (also called Lupine, Blue Bonnet - all parts)
Queensland Nut (all parts)
Ragwort (also called Groundsel, Tansy Ragwort - all parts above ground)
Raisins (also see Grapes)
Red Clover (foliage)
Red Emerald (all parts)
Red Lily (all parts)
Red Margined Dracaena (also called Straight Margined Dracaena - all parts)
Red Maple (leaves)
Red Princess (also called Emerald Duke, Majesty, Philodendron - all parts)
Red Sage (foliage, flowers, berries)
Red-Margined Dracaena (foliage)
Rhododendron (also called Azalea - all parts)
Rhubarb (also called Pie Plant - leaves, uncooked stems)
Ribbon Plant (foliage)
Richweed (also called White Snakeroot, White Sanicle - leaves, flowers, stems, roots)
Rosary Pea (also called Crab's Eye, Jequirity Bean, Precatory Bean - beans)
Rosemary (foliage)
Rosemary Pea (all parts)
Rubber Plant (all parts)
Rubrum Lily (all parts)
Saddle Leaf (also called Philodendron - all parts)
Sago Palm (all parts)
Satin Pothos (all parts)
Schefflera (also called Philodendron - all parts)
Scotch Broom (all parts)
Scouringrush (also called Horsetail - all parts)
Senecio (all parts above ground)
Sensitive Fern (all parts)
Sheep Laurel (also called Lambkill - all parts)
Silver Pothos (all parts)
Silver Queen (also called Chinese Evergreen - leaves, stems, roots)
Singletary Pea (all parts)
Skunk Cabbage (leaves, stems, roots)
Snake Plant (also called Mother-in-law's Tongue - all parts)
Snapdragon (foliage, flowers)
Snow on the Mountain (also called Ghost Weed - leaves, stem, milky sap)
Snowdrop (also called Nap-at-Noon, Star of Bethlehem - all parts)
Soapwort (also called Bouncing Bet - all parts)
Sorghum (foliage)
Spathiphyllum (also called Peace Lily - leaves, stems, flowers, bulbs)
Split-leaf Philodendron (also called Ceriman, Cut-leaf Philodendron, Fruit Salad Plant, Mexican Breadfruit, Swiss Cheese Plant - leaves, stems, roots)
Spotted Cowbane (also called Water Hemlock, Spotted Water Hemlock - all parts)
Spotted Dumb Cane (also called Dieffenbachia - all parts)
Spotted Water Hemlock (also called Spotted Cowbane, Water Hemlock - all parts)
Spring Amanita (also called Amanita - all parts)
Spurges (also called Euphorbia, Milk Bush, Tinsel Tree - all parts)
Squirrelcorn (leaves, stems, roots)
Squirreltail Barley (also called Foxtail Barley, Wild Barley - seedheads)
St. Johnswort (also called Klamath Weed - all parts)
Staggerweed (also called Bleeding Heart, Dutchman's Breeches - leaves, stems, roots
Star Jasmine (foliage, flowers)
Star of Bethlehem (also called Snowdrop, Nap-at-Noon - all parts)
Stargazer Lily (all parts)
Stinging Nettle (also called Wood Nettle - leaves, stems)
String of Pearls (all parts above ground)
Straight Margined Dracaena (also called Red Margined Dracaena - all parts)
Striped Dracaena (foliage)
Sudan Grass (all parts)
Sweet Cherry (seeds)
Sweet Pea (all parts)
Sweetheart Ivy (leaves, berries)
Swiss Cheese Plant (also called Ceriman, Cut-leaf Philodendron, Fruit Salad Plant, Mexican Breadfruit, Split-leaf Philodendron - leaves, stems, roots)
Syngonium (all parts)
Tangier Pea (all parts)
Tansy Mustard (all parts)
Tansy Ragwort (also called Grounsel, Ragwort - all parts above ground)
Taro Vine (leaves, stems, roots)
Tarweed (also called Amsinckia - all parts above ground)
Texas Mountain Laurel (also called Mescal Bean - all parts)
Thornapple (also called Apple of Peru, Flowering Tolguacha - all parts)
Tiger Lily (leaves, stems, flowers, bulbs)
Tinsel Tree (also called Euphorbia, Milk Bush - all parts)
Tobacco (leaves)
Tolguacha - flowering (also called Apple of Peru, Thornapple - all parts)
Tomato (foliage, vines, green fruit)
Touch-me-not (also called Impatiens - all parts)
Tree Philodendron (leaves, stems, roots)
Tri-Leaf Wonder (also called Arrowhead Vine, Nepthytis - leaves, stems, roots)
Trillium (foliage)
Tropic Snow Dieffenbachia (also called Dieffenbachia - all parts)
Trumpet Lily (all parts)
Trumpet Vine (also called Angel's Trumpet, Chalice Vine - all parts)
Tulip (bulbs)
Tung Oil Tree (all parts)
Tung Tree (all parts)
Umbrella Plant (all parts)
Variable Dieffenbachia (all parts)
Variegated Philodendron (all parts)
Variegated Wandering Jew (leaves)
Velvet Lupine (all parts)
Venus Flytrap (all parts)
Verbena (foliage, flowers)
Vinca Vine (all parts)
Virginia Creeper (sap)
Walnuts (hulls)
Wandering Jew (leaves)
Warneckei Dracaena (all parts)
Water Hemlock (also called Spotted Cowbane, Spotted Water Hemlock - all parts)
Weeping Fig (all parts)
West Indian Lantana (foliage, flowers, berries)
White Clover (foliage)
White Hellebore (also called Green False Hellebore, Indian Poke - all parts)
White Sanicle (also called White Snakeroot, Richweed - leaves, flowers, stems, roots)
White Snakeroot (also called White Sanicle, Richweed - leaves, flowers, stems, roots)
Wild Barley (also called Foxtail Barley, Squirreltail Barley - seedheads)
Wild Black Cherry (seeds)
Wild Bleeding Heart (leaves, stems, roots)
Wild Call (all parts)
Wire Vine (also called Angel Vine, Mattress Vine - all parts)
Wisteria (also called Chinese Wisteria, Japanese Wisteria - seeds, pods)
Wolfsbane (also called Aconite, Monkshood - leaves, flowers, roots)
Wood Lily (all parts)
Wood Nettle (leaves, stems)
Yellow Jasmine (also called Carolina Jessamine, Yellow Jessamine - all parts)
Yellow Oleander (also called Yellow Be-Still Tree - all parts)
Yellow Sage (foliage, flowers, berries)
Yellow Star Thistle (foliage, flowers)
Yesterday, Today, Tomorrow (all parts)
Yews (all Yews: American, English, Western Yew - needles, seeds, bark)
Yucca (all parts). If you notice any abnormal behavior from your pet, such as illness, or discomfort, it is bette to be safe than sorry. Please contact your vet, APCC, or Emergency Pet Hospital.
What Do Cats Really Remem -- Thursday November 1st, 2007
It appears what a feline sees and what a feline does affects his or her memory in different ways. Researchers from the University of Alberta in Edmonton studied how feline memory works. They conducted two obstacle tests. In the first set of tests, researchers placed obstacles in front of cats. When the cats’ front legs cleared the obstacles, they were distracted with food. Then the obstacles were placed in front of the cats again. In the second set of tests, the cats were stopped just before their front legs cleared the obstacles. Interestingly, the cats that stepped over the obstacles with their forelegs, remembered to clear their hind legs even when distracted for up to 10 minutes. However, when the forelegs did not step over the obstacles, memory of the obstacles was quickly lost. Although it is not clear how these tests relate to humans, they may play a role in how we navigate objects in the dark. You may have noticed that when you move through a cluttered lighted room that when you turn the light off, you still have the ability to avoid objects even though you cannot see them.
Be Prepared With Your Dog -- Monday October 22nd, 2007
Part 1 - Be Prepared
Proper preparation and First Aid kits.
How do canine first aid needs differ from human needs?
Dogs have a higher metabolic rate than humans. Their respiration and heart rates are considerably faster. Performing CPR on a dog differs from the procedure used on humans. Many over-the-counter drugs like ibuprofen or acetaminophen can be fatal for pets so becoming aware of these issues and others are key. However, some over-the-counter medicines can be very useful in alleviating discomfort and restoring health to a sick or injured dog. Knowing which over-the-counter drugs are beneficial and the proper dosages is extremely important, once again due to the dog's higher rate of metabolism. Also bandages for pet specific wounds will require different size dressings due to their fur and body configurations. Additionally, the types of wounds most often sustained by pets are quite different than the type of wounds sustained by humans.
How do Ruff Wear's First Aid Kits differ from a typical human first aid kit?
Ruff Wear's First Aid Kits are specifically designed to address the needs of pets. The contents of a human kit are basically useless on fur and information that may be provided in a human kit does not apply to animals. Any first aid kit is only as good as the information provided or the knowledge of the caregiver. All of Ruff Wear's First Aid Kits contain our Quick Guide to Animal Emergencies. This excellent guide was written utilizing information provided by several veterinarians as well as search and rescue personnel. Their input allowed us to create a first aid kit that is informative, addresses the most common ailments, and contains a wide array of dressings allowing the care giver to treat everything from a split toenail to broken bones.
How can I be best prepared before heading out with my dog?
Just as you would educate yourself on human first aid before the need arises, you should familiarize yourself with the contents of your Ruff Wear First Aid Kit. Read the enclosed Quick Guide to Animal Emergencies thoroughly prior to heading out, and keep the first aid kit with you when on the go with your dog. Anytime you are out of range of a vet, you need to be prepared to treat your dog. The following questions and answers give you an idea of the type of medical situations you may encounter while exploring the great outdoors with your four legged friend.
I AM A PUPPY -- Wednesday September 19th, 2007
I am your Puppy, and I will love you until the end of the Earth, but please know a few things about me.
I am a Puppy, This means that my intelligence and capacity for learning are the same as an 8-month-old child. I am a Puppy; I will chew EVERYTHING I can get my teeth on. This is how I explore and learn about the world. Even HUMAN children put things in their mouths. It's up to you to guide me to what is mine to chew and what is not.
I am a Puppy; I cannot hold my bladder for longer than 1-2 hours. I cannot "feel" that I need to poop until it is actually beginning to come out. I cannot vocalize nor tell you that I need to go, and I cannot have "bladder and bowel control" until 6-9 months. Do not punish me if you have not let me out for 3 hours and I tinkle. It is your fault. As a Puppy it is wise to remember that I NEED to go potty after: Eating, Sleeping, Playing, Drinking and around every 2-3 hours in addition. If you want me to sleep through the night, then do not give me water after 7 or 8pm. A crate will help me learn to housebreak easier, and will avoid you being mad at me. I am a puppy, accidents WILL happen, please be patient with me! In time I will learn.
I am a Puppy, I like to play. I will run around, and chase imaginary monsters, and chase your feet and your toes and 'attack' you, and chase fuzzballs, other pets, and small kids. It is play; it's what I do. Do not be mad at me or expect me to be sedate, mellow and sleep all day. If my high energy level is too much for you, maybe you could consider an older rescue from a shelter or Rescue group. My play is beneficial, use your wisdom to guide me in my play with appropriate toys, and activities like chasing a rolling ball, or gentle tug games, or plenty of chew toys for me. If I nip you too hard, talk to me in "dog talk", by giving a loud YELP, I will usually get the message, as this is how dogs communicate with one another. If I get to rough simply ignore me for a few moments, or put me in my crate with an appropriate chew toy.
I am Puppy; hopefully you would not yell, hit, strike, kick or beat a 6-month-old human infant so please do not do the same to me. I am delicate, and also very impressionable. If you treat me harshly now, I will grow up learning to fear being hit, spanked, kicked or beaten. Instead, please guide me with encouragement, and wisdom. (For instance, if I am chewing something wrong, say, "No chew!" and hand me a toy I CAN chew) better yet, pick up ANYTHING that you do not want me to get into. I can't tell the difference between your old sock and your new sock, or an old sneaker and your 200$ Nikes.
I am a Puppy, and I am a creature with feelings, and drives much like your own, but yet also very different. Although I am NOT a human in a dog suit, neither am I an unfeeling robot who can instantly obey your every whim. I truly DO want to please you, and be a part of your family, and your life. You got me (I hope) because you want a loving partner and companion, so do not relegate me to the backyard when I get bigger, do not judge me harshly but instead mold me with gentleness and guidelines and training into the kind of family member you want me to be.
I am a puppy and I am not perfect, and I know you are not perfect either. I Love you anyway. So please, learn all you can about training, and puppy behaviors and caring for me from your Veterinarian, books on dog care and even researching on the computer! Learn about my particular breed and it's "characteristics" it will give you understanding and insight into WHY I do the things I do. Please teach me with love, and patience, the right way to behave and socialize me with training in a puppy class or obedience class, we will BOTH have a lot of fun together.
I am a Puppy and I want more than anything to love you, to be with you, and to please you. Won't you please take time to understand how I work? We are the same you and I, in that we both feel hunger, pain, thirst, discomfort, fear, but yet we are also very different and must work to understand one another's language, body signals, wants and needs. Some day I will be a handsome dog, hopefully one you can be proud of and one that you will love as much as I love you.
Love,
Your Puppy.
PULLING ON LEASH -- Wednesday August 15th, 2007
When you use a collar, if you have a strong puller then all the stress of the pull is on the dog's neck, and in most cases across the throat. In my experience, the resistance/counter resistance has the primary
tendency to cause the dog to pull harder (Terry Ryan once gave a Greek word to describe this: thigmatoxatosis or something like that). But the bottom line is the dog is pulling and meeting resistance, and
the ingrained, natural response to that is to pull harder. And as I say, with the collar (any collar) the focal point of the pressure on the dog is at the throat.
With the harness you have the pull but the focal point of the
pressure is at the chest, which in most cases is far better equipped
to take the pressure than is the throat. Look at the weight pull
events: the harness is around the chest, not the throat. Makes sense
to me.
There are several elements in stopping the pulling dog (and assume
throughout that I'm always using a harness). First, do not let the
dog get any momentum. Always work on a short leash, no longer than
4', such that if the dog were one body length ahead (his rump at your
leg) the leash would be taut.
Second, do not extend your arms as the dog moves forward but keep the
hand that holds the leash tight at your hip at all times.
Note from Chris: Brenda Aloff showed us we have a lot more power if we hold the leash in a fist at our belly button. Make a fist, put your arm across your belly (knuckles should be facing in front of you) the leash will come out of the opening at the top of your fist and go over the knuckles of your hand. You can also put the leash behind you so that if the dog pulls, the leash across your butt and on either side of your hips helps stop the dog.
Third, consider comparative biomechanics. The dog is built to go "north/south", (i.e., backward and forward). So when he is pulling forward he is using his greatest strength. We humans on the other hand are built to go "east/west" (i.e., side to side). So if the dog is pulling forward and we are in a straight line behind the dog, we are matching our greatest weakness against the dog's greatest strength. Guess who wins.
So fourth, there is a sequence of movements involved. First, when the dog gets ahead of you just stop. Do not allow him to pull you even so much as one step and again, do not extend your arm. Now you have to
adjust the balance of power, so turn about 45 degrees to your right and step back with your right foot so your feet are spread just wider than shoulder width. (From Chris: the cop or fighters stance) Lean back slightly on your right foot as a weight shift but do not pull on the leash. At this point you are merely setting yourself so the dog cannot pull you.
As a side note here, never have the leash handle looped around your
hand or any of your fingers. Keep the leash completely folded in your
fist, with your thumb resting on top of your first finger. If the dog
pulls suddenly and hard and you have the handle looped around your
finger or thumb, you could lose the digit.
Now fifth, you are going to move. For those of you who remember
analog clocks, consider the dog as facing toward 12:00. You now want
to switch the power equation and match your greatest strength (east/
west) against the dog's greatest weakness (east/west). So step with
your left foot toward a spot slightly past 3:00. This will require
that the dog make a sidestep; the dog can do this physically, but
without any power. Take three or four steps until the dog catches up
with you. Click and treat at your left side, turn back toward your
original line of travel, and stop again.
The stops are essential because they completely break any momentum in
the situation.
You have never moved your hand from its position right at your left
hip, so there is no "correction" involved in the ordinary sense of
the term. All throughout you are simply countering your dog's
physical movement with your own, in a way that guarantees that the
dog will have to follow you without effective resistance. Nor is the
process violent or harsh on the dog; it is just simply placidly
physically overwhelming.
In most cases when I do this, within five repetitions you find that
when you stop the first time the dog will stop and look back at you.
This is a critical recognition point, because this tells you the dog
knows that you are going to make the move. At this point it can and
often does happen that you take one step and the dog immediately
catches up with you.
My sense of the impact that this makes on the dog is that all of a
sudden the dog realizes that you are (surprise!) physically superior.
This is a trick, of course, because as I note we are not at all a
match for the dog so long as we are working against the dog's strength.
Is this important? Well, I have come to the conclusion that dogs are
physical animals, and especially (but not exclusively) with large or
strong dogs you have to establish yourself. I'm not getting into
"dominance" here, simply that you at least establish some equivalency
so the dog learns that he cannot just run over you. And this is,
frankly, the most effective and least invasive of the means I have
ever tried. Plus, it works and has no fallout that I have encountered
yet in four years of doing it this way.
Morgan Spector
Best Behavior Dog Training
NADOI #835N, IAABC
www.bestbehavior.net
FOSTERING PETS 101 -- Wednesday August 15th, 2007
Merriam-Webster Dictionary defines foster home and foster as follows:
Foster Home: a household in which an orphaned, neglected, or delinquent child [animal in our case] is placed for care. So a BIG thank-you to all those who have taken on the role and task of being a foster home and family for our rescued dogs.
Foster: to give parental guidance, care to nurture; promote growth or development; to encourage; provide feeding, affording, receiving or sharing nourishment.
You’ve received the call. A foster dog will be coming to you. Items you will need for fostering: Crate; 6ft lead; a buckle or martingale collar; food dish.
Each day of a dog’s life is developmental no matter what the age. Each day had events, stimuli, people, etc., that can change them in an instant. And have an impact on them for the rest of their lives. It is now up to us [foster home] to provide the proper guidance to the dog to allow them to succeed in life and not fail. Use positive training as the dog goes through the developmental stages during his/her time with you. The environment and stimuli you present to the dog will either set them up to succeed or fail.
The crate should be placed in a room that is quiet and away from everyday traffic in your home.
This means, out of the way from other dogs, people, direct traffic in/out of doorway. A laundry room or spare bedroom, or basement is a good place. This allows the dog to take in the noises of the home without direct confrontation from other dogs or people. Thereby giving them time to
de-sensitize and relax.
When taking the dog in/out of the crate. You want to be sure to hook a lead to them. Whether you have a fenced in yard or not. The dog doesn’t know you and the first instinct will be to bolt/run. A boston can climb a 6ft fence quicker than we can say STOP! The lead gives you 6ft of added space. The lead is your training tool. Use it in positive ways.
When the dog is out with you. Be sure to praise the positive things he/she does, i.e., like sitting on their own. Say good "sit" or "down". They key is to recognize and praise for the positive. As humans we tend to only recognize our dogs when they are bad. Using their name to correct. So, when we want them to come to us in positive they don’t know it is ok. As they are only talked to when bad. When recognizing them in good, i.e., when looking at you, sitting, lying down, waiting patiently. They are more apt to always do good without being asked to perform the command. It will just be a natural instinct to perform.
Pet the dog only during training times. That is when the dog is out with you and being monitored. The dog performs a task that you ask. One quick pet on the side or under the chin. Sitting with the dog on your lap. And the need for constant companionship and petting the dog. Are more human feelings than the dogs. We humans tend to overwhelm the dog with our feelings and need to touch, pet, coddle and be with the dog. In doing this. When do they have time away from us? In demonstrating this human behavior to the dogs. They are being inadvertently trained to be fearful, shy, creating separation anxiety, and sometimes can lead to aggressive behavior. As the dog feels the need to protect, comfort and defend the human. Give the dog time away from you [crate] to breath and relax in their own space.
Do not expect immediate integration and socialization of foster dogs with your personal dogs. They don’t know each other. Give the foster dog 3-5 days to just unwind and de-sensitize itself to your home. Giving them a change to get to know you [see definition of foster home and foster] as a provider and trust.
Remember your first day of school. How overwhelming it was to just get out the door to the bus stop and then walk in the door of the class room. Overwhelming a foster dog with immediate socialization of other dogs and humans is only setting the dog up for failure. As you are causing the dog to be defensive and/or fearful. Then punishing the dog because of his/her reaction. Is this being fair to the dog? Socialization means that you avoid stressful or overwhelming situations, and avoid forcing the dog to explore 100 things in the first 5-7 days with you. Slow integration and exposure to things allows the dog to de-sensitize him/herself to the environment and stimuli they will encounter in daily life and create a positive for them, instead of negative.
Remember. It only takes one incident to put a positive or negative imprint on a dog for the rest of its life. If the dog means something to you. Make it a positive.
Need to De-skunk Your Dog -- Wednesday August 8th, 2007
Here is a receipe to help should you need to De-Skunk your pet.
RECEIPE FOR DE-SKUNKING
1 quart Peroxide
1/4 cup of Baking Soda
2 Tablespoons liquid soap(all kind)
Wet down your dog, and pour mixture in stinky area of coat
Rub in mixture and rinse with water.
Let your dog dry in the sun
then shampoo and rinse your dog as usual.
Let dry a second time.
(Sometimes you may need to repeat the steps)
Toxic Foods For Dogs -- Monday July 30th, 2007
Did you know there are many foods that are toxic to dogs. Dogs can become victim to an accidental death by an unformed owner. Become the best pet pal you can be and keep this list of food out of reach of your pet.
Chocolate
Rasins
Grapes
Onions
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